RECORDED: Richmond (B.C.), 1983-11 SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Ray Legace (Alpha's husband) was born in 1895 in Hatzic Prairie, BC; his first year in Banff was 1917 and later worked for Pat Brewster. English party used collapsible bathtub on trip. Repeat American parties. Worked with Percy Bennett, Red Cathcart, Chet Hogan, Mr. Temple, Scottie Wright, Wattie Potts. Areas hunted. Some hunting clients. Ray started on his own in 1930. Poor business during WWII. Worked summers at Lake Louise after 1940. Dr. Weibrecht made filming trips. Peabody Museum collecting expedition at Skoki, 1951. Calgary Herald article, sleeping with a bear. Flour snow tale. Lagaces ran Skoki Lodge from 1950 to 1963. History of lodge management. TRACK 2: Packed for Alpine Club, Seattle mountaineers in Lake Louise are in 1940s and 1950s. J. Munroe Thorington made repeat trips. Rockefellers. 1929 climbing trip with Colonel Amery detailed in book. Van Heek book. Some business details and factors. Dale Carnegie. Surviving the Depression. Old outfitters from Banff, Pat Brewster, George Harrison, Jack Thomas, Jimmy Simpson, Elmer Jamieson. Alpha's arrival in Banff, 1929. Sir Norman Watson. Managing Post Hotel.

RECORDED: Vancouver (B.C.), 1979-05-03 SUMMARY: Art Cooper was born in 1903 and was an accountant. He discusses early climbing on the North Shore mountains. A trip up Mt. Coquitlam. Food for trips. Trips to Golden Ears and Garibaldi. Ascent of The Camel. Winter ascent of the West Lion. How the B.C.M.C. organized trips. Clothing and equipment needed by the mountaineers. Travelling by boat to climb The Lions. Funny anecdote about cooking beans. B.C.M.C. cabin on Grouse Mountain. "Rock gymnastics" on Squamish Chief. Need for skill on rock and snow. Effect of the Depression on climbers. Description of Tantalus area. Using early maps.1964 trip to Squamish Valley. Rock climbing in the Bugaboos. Frightening thunderstorm in the Rockies. Climbing Mt. Sir Donald in the Selkirks. Bushwhacking on the Coast Range. First ascents. Changing character of A.C.C. Early ski equipment. Competitive aspect of modern skiing. Glissading. Climb of Mt. Columbia. Effect of ski development on mountains. Names of local mountains. Ascents by B. Darling. Discussion of climbs in Garibaldi. Sky Pilot group. Climb of Mt. Robie Reid (Old Baldy) in 1934. Danger from electrical storms. Taking pictures in the mountains. Comparison of equipment. Going in to Garibaldi from Garibaldi station. Pacing while hiking. More about picture taking. Climbing in the U.S.A. and on Vancouver Island. Mount Waddington. Climbs in the Rockies. Risk-taking in climbing. More cautious as he got older. "Brain work" involved in mountaineering.

CALL NUMBER: T4105:0001.1 RECORDED: Quesnel (B.C.), 1983-11 SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Swift place in Jasper. Tonquin Valley, 1926. 1929 hunting trip. Climbing Mount Robson, 1924. The Flying Trestle (1931-31). Robson area. Climbing party to Mount Sir Alexander (Kitchi), 1929. Adam Joachim. Bert Wilkins. Curly Phillips; boats and operation, circa 1936; trapping; death in avalanche (1939); retrieving the body. Hargreaves family; Jack, Roy. Berg Lake trips. Brazeau Circle trip with Stan Kitchen 1934. Forty-day dude trips from Devona. TRACK 2: Country and wildlife north of Jasper Park. Wolf and game decline. Various trails. Trips for Jack Brewster. Some; guides/outfitters in Jasper. Big Grave Flats. George Hargreaves death/grave on Sheep Creek, 1936. Indian grave on Pauline Creek. Tuffer party to Jarvis Pass. Darryl Zanuck hunt (Willmore Wilderness), 1930. Zanuck bear hunt on Canoe/Columbia Rivers, 1932 or 1933. CALL NUMBER: T4105:0001.2 RECORDED: Quesnel (B.C.), 1983-11 SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Zanuck hunt, continued. Ted Abrams. Death forced premature boat exit to Revelstoke. River guides mentioned. Eight Mile Canyon near Revelstoke. Four month collecting trip for Carnegie Museum, Pittsburg, 1945 and 1946. Dr. Toomey. Andrew Mellon. Cunningham trip, 1938. Cutter Laboratories, California, hunting trip. Chuck Chesser, outfitter. Topographic survey of Jasper Park north; boundary, summer of 1927 and 1928. Mr. H.F. Lambert, chief surveyor. Grant Hare, packer, left first trip. Prior problems. Frank Burstrom's supply hike. TRACK 2: Permits and licences. Guiding regulations. Sheep and goat north of Jasper. Abercrombie hunting party of Jack Hargreaves. Starting his outfit, 1946. Caribou, areas and decline. Working for Jasper warden service from 1959 to 1971, building cabins. Fording the Smoky River. Grizzly bear incidents. 1931 museum (King) party. Tent Fire. CALL NUMBER: T4105:0001.3 RECORDED: Quesnel (B.C.), 1983-11 SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Tent fire continued. Harvey Crate. Buffalo horns found at Mowitch Creek and Glacier Pass. Old Indian campsites and smoke huts. Alex Nellis, warden. Cabins and chalet at Berg Lake. Charley and Dan Bolen. Tom Wilde. Charley McMurtry. Stu Anderson. Rufe Neighbor. Bert Wilkins. Beaver pranks. Hersch Neighbor. Harry Phillips and grizzly bear attack. 'Red" Creighton ran Black Cat Ranch at Brule. Fights recounted. Ranch at Hinton. Solo attempt on Mount Robson by Mr. Waffle in 1930. [TRACK 2: blank.]

RECORDED: Wilmer (B.C.), 1983-12 SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Accounts of hunting grizzly. Snowbound escape from Ice River area via Wolverine Pass. Walter Nixon (father) started packing ore in Parson area, 1907. Was game warden during WWI, political appointment. Gordon Nixon took out survey parties. David started in 1932. Outfit called 2N, was family operation and was sold after WWII. Hunting on Simpson River for moose and grizzly, got three record heads. TRACK 2: Seven point elk. Upper Simpson River had "tame" elk. Built original trail in Simpson Valley. Sir George Simpson's copper tea kettle found. Nixon built a number of other trails. Bill Harrison, Roy McDonald were guides. Some dude trips for CPR resort at Windermere. Packing for Alpine Club camps. Lake of Hanging Glacier. Photo in ice cave. Survey work was good money, climbing parties less so. Packing for surveys on Big Bend Highway. Brother was among those drowned on Kinbasket Lake then. Bugaboos. Nixons helped Conrad Kain. Wintered horses on Police Meadows at Edgewater. Walter Nixon died in 1952.

Series consists of diaries of Alberta - British Columbia boundary surveys, 1916, 1917, 1919 and 1920 (also one entry for Aug. 29, 1913); transcript of diary kept by Arthur 0. Wheeler during the Alpine Club of Canada expedition to Jasper Park, Yellowhead Pass and Mt. Robson region, July to September 1911 (vol. 4).

CALL NUMBER: T0989:0001 RECORDED: [location unknown], [197-] SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Mr. Dick Person begins by describing where he was born in Duluth to Swedish parents; how he got into the outdoor life, spending time as a child on lakes and in parks; canoe trips and outdoor; experiences as a child; his studies in zoology and geology; first exposure to western Canada on a climbing trip, including his impressions of the attitudes of Canadians; his views about the USA. Various animals he has encountered in the wilderness. Backpacking and mountaineering, including his work making equipment for these uses. TRACK 2: Mr. Person discusses why he lives in the mountains, including what led him to give up on the city; experiences living in the Kootenays; how he cannot feel at home in a house, and now lives in a teepee full-time; how he and his family live off the land and; hunt. He then describes a trip through the mountains to the Kootenays, and a description of a typical trip in the winter.;

CALL NUMBER: T0989:0002 RECORDED: [location unknown], [197-] SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Mr. Person discusses more on this trip, cross country skiing, why he chooses to live in the mountains; the kinds of information he is out to gather on winter trips; what parks need; and what he thinks need to be included in touring films. [TRACK 2: blank.]

RECORDED: Glacier (B.C.), 1978-07 & 08 SUMMARY: Camp talk. Doug Herchmer interview/talk begins after about three minutes. He discusses his mountain climbing activities, beginning in the Chetwynd area of the Rocky Mountains. The interview was recorded for use in Marcuse's radio documentary "Rock and Ice", which aired on CBC Radio's "Between Ourselves".

RECORDED: [location unknown], 1977-06 SUMMARY: An interview with mountain guide Edward Feuz, Jr.;

CALL NUMBER: T0896:0001 RECORDED: [location unknown], 1964-11-08 SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Edward Feuz describes the CPR's Swiss guides in the Rockies: his father came out to the Rockies from Interlaken Switzerland in 1899 as a mountain guide for the CPR, Ed came out in 1903 and worked as a porter, at twenty-one he returned to Switzerland to to pass his Swiss Guide exams - standard for Swiss guides, William Randolph Hearst, climbing with Col. Amery who was the Viceroy of India. TRACK 2: Feuz continues with more on Amery, Ed and all of his brothers were married in 1909, CPR "Swiss Village" at Golden, the village was a failure as the lots were too small, built on rocky slop;es, guides never got the winter work the CPR guaranteed them, eventually all the guides ended up in Lake Louise, did maintainable work in winter.

CALL NUMBER: T0896:0002 RECORDED: [location unknown], 1964-11-08 SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Feuz describes the alpine hut at Abbott's Pass, anecdote about when he was trapped in an avalanche, differences in the geology and climate of the Rockies, Selkirk and Alps, winters are much ;harder in the Rockies, rock faces often less secure here, regrets that there is no socializing after a day's climb as there is in Switzerland. [TRACK 2: blank.]

RECORDED: Vancouver (B.C.), 1979-03-12 SUMMARY: Eileen Desbrisay was born in 1891 and she attended several early Alpine Club summer camps. Her interview describes these camps. She didn't make any climbs of great note, so the interview deals mostly with equipment, general social ambience, etc. at camps. Equipment for A.C.C. camps: ice axes. Buying equipment in Switzerland. Learning to rappel. Climbing with the CPR Swiss guides. Use of hemp ropes. Climbing techniques.

RECORDED: [location unknown], 1979-04-25 SUMMARY: Eric Brooks and his wife Emmie Brooks are retired schoolteachers who discuss mountaineering in B.C. Interview begins abruptly without biographical information. They discuss a 1933 attempt on Mt. Waddington and the death of Alec Dalgleish. Emmie Brooks reads an article from the 1934 A.C.C. Journal. Discussion of early maps, climb of Border Peaks. Difficulties of bushwhacking. Early climbing on the North Shore mountains. Ladies' climbing clothing. Climbing in Switzerland with Scottish Ladies' Alpine Club. Swiss guides at Alpine Club camps. Discussion of why they climb. Bit of personal history. Running A.C.C. summer camps during WWII. "Iron rations". Ascent of The Camel and The Table. B.C. mountains compared to other climbing areas. First ascent of Mt. Cayley. Early ascent of The Lions, Mt. Baker. First ski trip to Whistler area, 1932. Climbing East Lion via Mt. Strachan. Clothing. Ski trip to Glacier (Rogers Pass). Early ski equipment. A.C.C. cabin on Mt. Seymour. Artificial [?] versus free climbing.

RECORDED: Edson (Alta.), 1984-10 SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Early trapping and moose hunting in the Peace River region. Local guides names. Worked for Stan Clark and Jack Hargreaves in the Jasper area, circa 1938. Art and Ken Allen were head guides. Other Jasper outfits in the 1940s noted. Tips given on summer and fall trips. Pat Smith, Ed and Frank Moberly. Cooks. Hargreaves' area was Sulphur River; trailed in from Devona. Red Ilee. Hunter's death recounted; taking out the body, etc. Worked for Red Creighton's outfit after WWII. Outfitting summer climbing trips, usually 14 days. TRACK 2: Larry McGuire. Transferred into pack troop at Prince George during WWII; specialized horsemen, packed mountain fighters for manoeuvers in mountain parks. Gene was a farrier. A 'unique' discharge. Wife cooked for various outfitters. Various wages for summer and fall trips. Guiding equipment. Fish story regarding Jack Hargreaves. Frank Burstrom and disappearing elk horns story.

Diaries, 1897-1961, correspondence, subject files, scrapbooks and household accounts. The collection reflects Longstaff's interest in military affairs, naval history, mountaineering, the Anglican Church, various youth organizations and the history of British Columbia in general.

Records include: diaries, 1897-1961, correspondence, subject files, scrapbooks and household accounts. The collection reflects Longstaff's interest in military affairs, naval history, mountaineering, the Anglican Church, various youth organizations and the history of British Columbia in general.

Approximately 1,200 photographs of ships, mountains, family, and a world cruise of the Empress of Britain were transferred to Visual Records accession 198504-001. The photographs are arranged alphabetically as organized by Longstaff. Other photographs are in accession 198001-002. The photos are not included in this series file list. Request the blue Longstaff photo binders from Archives staff to see descriptions of the photographs and photo albums in this series.

Maps were registered as M889132. A list of maps from the Longstaff collection is available in Map documentation file M856030, also known as finding aid CM/Z43. Please request this file from an archivist.

RECORDED: Jasper (Alta.), 1983-11 SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Came to Jasper area with work on GTP Railroad in 1915. Cooked for Jack Brewster in 1922. Trip re: first ascent of Mount Alberta, 1925. Cooked for Fred Brewster and Curly Phillips. Details of cooking on the trail. Trip with Jack Hargreaves. Adam Joachim. Bill Mustard. Indian grave on Cardinal River. Guides from Brule. Town site and CNR surveys. Bobby Jones, Jimmy Lambe. 1935 geological survey. Park warden, 1939. [TRACK 2: blank.]

RECORDED: Canmore (Alta.), 1984-10 SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Started in early 1930s; worked for Pat Brewster, Brewster Transport, and Claude Brewster. Grew up in Cypress Hills. Various jobs in Banff from 1927. Pat Brewster outfit; Assiniboine camp, 200 head of horses, short dude trips. Horse assisted hiking trips in Larch Valley, Skoki. A 36-day sightseeing trip from Kananaskis Lakes to Lake Louise. Worked with Harvey Clark, Lance Reigher, Jim Moore, after WWII. Other outfits; Ray Legace, George Harris. One guiding territory was Simpson River; then Panther-Clearwater areas used. Bought horses from Stoney Indians. Yoho Park years and various horse concessions, circa 1948 to 1968. Floyd Smith was early partner. Regulation eventually restricted operation. Packed for Alpine Club in Yoho Park. TRACK 2: Some guides, etc.: Rex Logan, Alvin Gwynne, Ike Mills, Bagley brothers, Jim Burroughs, Brewster's 60th anniversary reunion. Slim Hogan managed the Ya Ha Tinda. Operating pony stable at Canmore.

CALL NUMBER: T0156:0009 RECORDED: Vancouver (B.C.), 1979-05 SUMMARY: Kate McQueen was born in 1884 and gives a witty introduction. She attended the first Alpine Club of Canada (A.C.C.) in 1914 in Little Yoho Valley. She describes camp; climb up Mount President; news of WWI reaching the A.C.C. camp; enjoyable campfires. The next camp she attended was in 1916(?). Discussion of purchase of life membership. Camp at Healey Creek. Next camp she attended was at Assiniboine in 1920. Joined the British Columbia Mountaineering Club (B.C.M.C.) and climbed the North Shore mountains. Women's dress for climbing. Reverend Sovereign and meetings of the B.C.M.C. executives during the First World War. 1920 A.C.C. camp at Assiniboine. Description of Sydney Mitchell, early secretary of the A.C.C. Supply problems at Assiniboine camp. CALL NUMBER: T0156:0010 RECORDED: Vancouver (B.C.), 1979-05 SUMMARY: Kate McQueen tells a story about a forest fire in Assiniboine; getting lost on the trails; anecdote about campfire talks; Col. Foster's strategem to shut up a loquacious speaker; women's dress in camp; the "tea tent" at camp. Camp at Tonquin Valley, 1926; days hike in Tonquin Valley; Swiss guide gets lost in the forest. Taking a rail trip in trousers -- seemed very daring. Protocol at camps. A romance at the 1914 camp. Conrad Kain. "Parting shot" a summary. Discussion of photography (in the midst of tea) cameras and film. Unrelated discussion of Fripp paintings in McQueen household. Subjects for mountain photographs. Anecdote about climbing Garibaldi. Anecdote about hike in Rockies -- modesty in the mountains.

RECORDED: Kelowna (B.C.), 1984-10 SUMMARY: TRACK 1: Worked for Curly Phillips in 1924; market garden and tourist boating. Seventy-day climbing expedition to Columbia Icefields in 1927; first ascent record, Swiss guides. Mount Robson. Description of Donald "Curly" Phillips; death in avalanche, tourist boat operations in early 1930s. Packing and guiding. Indian guides. Jack Hargreaves. Red Creighton. Head guide psychology. Grande Cache. Ken and wife worked for Ray Hargreaves at Mount Robson. First ascent expedition to Mount Sir Alexander in 1929. broken ankle tended by Dr. Gilmour. Mr. Waffle. Finished guiding in 1939. Jasper warden service in early 1940s, then CNR work. Train accident in 1951 at Canoe River killed 22 people. Harry Phillips attacked by grizzly. TRACK 2: Grizzly attack continued. Medicine Lake and Maligne Lake tourist boat concession circa 1931 to 1933. Phillip's dude trap line, 1927. Many wives did the cooking on trips. Chuck Chesser. Slim Fry. George Korsvik. Oswald Svensen. Otto Brothers. Joe Saladana. Boundary survey work, 1938. General guiding duties. Fred Brewster. Building laundry for Jasper Park Lodge. Other names; Max Hoover, Larry McGuire, Frank Burstrom, Adam Joachim, Dave, Frank and Ed Moberly. Summer dude trips. River fords. Memories of American hunters.

Mostly men

RECORDED: Canmore (Alta.), 1979-05-20 SUMMARY: Lawrence Grassi was born in 1890 and gives biographical information. Arrival in Canmore. Beginning to climb in Rockies. Early A.C.C. summer camps. Participation in 1936 B.C.M.C. -- Sierra Club attempt on Mt. Waddington. "To me it makes no difference whether I climb Grotto (small easy climb in the Rockies) or Everest -- it's all the same to me". Previous knowledge of Mt. Waddington. Discussion of the use of pitons and carabineers ("I do hundreds of climbs. I use one piton"). Use of piton on climb. Discussion of modern style of climbing. Resumes description of expedition to Mt. Waddington -- via Franklin River to Franklin Glacier and Glacier Point. Discomfort with heavy packs in bad weather. Establishing camps on Glacier. Meeting Weissner and House on mountain. Bad weather prevents attempts. Climbs lower north peak of Mt. Waddington. Disappointment of not making main peak. Climbing out of Rogers Pass. Climbing Sir Donald five times in six days. 6000' elevation gain in ascent of Mt. Waddington. Climbs in Dawson Range. Description of ascent of Fox and other mountains via the Alaskan Pass.

The item is a travelogue film. "'Mountain climbing with all its thrills near Lake O'Hara in Yoho National Park, British Columbia.' The film begins on a busy street in Toronto with cars and a Yonge Street streetcar contending with traffic, and pedestrians during rush hour. It then cuts to a mountain in the Rockies and Lake O'Hara. A man is looking over the rear platform of a train. Lake O'Hara with a mountain at the end. A party of four have decided to take a mountain holiday and they set off for some climbing, passing across alpine meadows, through creeks, and up and down all manner of very lovely mountainous terrain with snowy peaks in the [background]. They climb past the "Seven Sisters" waterfalls. Coming to an alpine lake, they begin the ascent to the summit, using ropes and picks and traversing some tricky rock faces. They reach snow and use their ropes to cross an abyss. Near the top they reach the "Devil's Window" and, finally, the summit. Going back down is ,just as treacherous. They slide or 'glissade' down a mile-long snow bank. The last scene shows Lake O'Hara with a rowboat moving toward the camera across a still surface." (Colin Browne)

RECORDED: Trail (B.C.), 1968-03 & 04? SUMMARY: In a series of interviews with J.D. McDonald, Norman H. Brewster discusses climbing and ski mountaineering in the Selkirk and Rocky Mountains during the 1930s and 1940s. Mr. Brewster was CPR telegraph operator at Glacier Station (the west portal of Connaught Tunnel) during the ten years of his Selkirk experiences.

SUMMARY: This special program was broadcast separately from the season's regular "People in Landscape" sub-series. In the program, Edward Feuz recalls some of his experiences as a mountain-climbing guide for the CPR in the Rocky and Selkirk Mountains.

The series consists of 796 lantern slides taken by Phyllis Munday between ca. 1926 and 1936. The slides are 8 x 8 cm positives and contain both coloured and black and white images. The photographs depict mountains, glaciers, climbing camps and friends and family in British Columbia and Alberta mountain ranges. Although many of the slides have numbers, many do not and there is no coherent arrangement to the whole series. In addition, many of the slides have been renumbered more than once. Most of the slides have no date or identification attached. Handwritten labels giving some dates and locations are associated with bundles of slides.

SUPPLIED TITLE OF TAPE(S): The admiral was a horse wrangler RECORDED: Victoria (B.C.), 1980-03-18 SUMMARY: Rear Admiral T. Blair McLean recalls his youth, when he was hired as a horse wrangler by mountaineering and tourist parties in the high lands along the Alberta-British Columbia border. Outfitters and guides. The watch maintained in grizzly country. Horses' tricks. Personalities and enthusiasts.